Post Africa confusion and over the falls with a bump...

I've been back from Uganda for 2 weeks now although it seems a lot longer. Actually, it will be 2 weeks tomorrow. It's been difficult adjusting back to life in Scotland following the break. I'm pretty surprised about this given I was only away for 2 weeks. I remember similar feelings when I returned from a 3 month stint in 2003, but heading back to University life and friends kept me so busy I think it was probably easier to adjust. Working part time at the moment has left me with a lot of free time on my hands to think too much, and having an unemployed husband at home also adds some extra stresses on the weekdays when we're both home and feel like we should be out working! I was surprised I settled back into the African way of life so quickly on my recent trip given my previous visit had been 6 years ago. It really was just like meeting up with a really good old friend again. I'm going to try to verbalise some of my thoughts on why returning home has been hard for me, however I'm not sure it's easy to put in to words. I know many of you reading this have travelled extensively and have probably had similar feelings/experiences - I would be interested to hear your thoughts.

There have been a number of contrasts I've really noticed. Apart from a huge change in weather (coming back home to Scotland from abroad heading in to autumn or winter is always a challenge!) and the pace of life, I really miss being outside all the time and getting regular exercise outdoors. I feel claustrophobic all couped up inside. It's just not that appealing to head outside when it's 10 degrees and windy! I also miss people's attitudes. I miss the contagious "don't worry, everything will work out" attitude that so many people in Africa have - Africans and Caucasians alike. A self-confessed born worrier, being immersed in these attitudes is so therapeutic - it's impossible not to chill out! Being in Africa seems to give me a better perspective on who I am. I think that may well be due to removing all the unnecessary worries and facades that come hand-in-hand with trying to function in a western society. In Africa I feel like I am Jen - nothing more and nothing less, no labels attached. Also, it is just SO refreshing not to be surrounded by a culture where "stuff" seems more important than people. I love that in Africa everyone is dusty and dirty and nobody cares. I love not waking up in the morning and worrying that your top doesn't match your shoes. It's refreshing to be surrounded by folk out there (Westerners travelling included) who judge you by your personality and not outwardly by appearances. I've been left contemplating how shallow our Western, post-modern society really seems and how "contagious" it's values are. I left Africa refreshed with the simplicity of life and encouraged that "stuff", in the grand scheme of things, is unimportant. Returning home I've quickly been reminded how important appearances, things and money are in our society. If it's not people talking at work about the new top of the range Audi they are going to buy it's my accountant phoning to update me on my tax returns or an advert for the next iPhone you must have on the TV. I miss that people in Africa make time to talk with one another and that relationships within communities are deep and strong resulting in a rich community spirit and an eagerness to help one another out. Back home it seems people are so busy with life that relationships are often sidelined - I know myself I am guilty of this. In my opinion, when it comes to living a good life, we in the West have so much to learn from our African friends.

This all said I think it's only fair to add that I am fortunate to be able to visit Africa as a westerner with expendable income. Although living out there seems cheap and easy for me, it is not so rosy for many Ugandan families who live hand to mouth as subsistence farmers. The jobs market out there seems to be as difficult at the moment as in the UK, health care is not free and many people have diseases they cannot afford to have tended to. Thinking of this makes me feel selfish as a visitor who is not putting anything back into the local community. I found this a difficult contrast to my last visit when I was working as a doctor out there. I also felt quite ashamed spending more on one days kayaking than most families would earn in many months.

In summary I guess I am confused. In one respect I appreciate the simplicity of life in Uganda and enjoy being in a place where money is not people's main priority in life but, on the other hand, I'm enjoying this way of life as an outsider who has enough that I don't need to worry about paying for food, a roof over my head or doctor's fees.... quite the hypocrite, huh! Thoughts please!

On another note, I've been trying to challenge myself a bit more on the paddling front since I got home from Africa. It's been a bit difficult trying to find like minded folk who want to do some of the more difficult runs rather than just sticking on the usual grade 3's, but I did manage to get out and paddle the Tummel last weekend and again yesterday. Unfortunately we had an incident yesterday when the guy I was paddling with landed the second drop of a 18 foot fall onto a rocky slab sideways - landing on his shoulder and the side of his face. It was immediately obvious he'd fractured his left clavicle. After we got him out of the gorge and sorted out the shuttles, the rest of the afternoon was spent in A&E. As well as feeling pretty sorry for Neil, I've also lost my paddling chum for the next couple of months at least. If anyone out there fancies trying some local grade 4's give me a shout!

Here are a few photos of the fateful run:

After the first drop, despite a decent line in, Neil gets pushed left by the stopper...

Far to far left and trying to correct like crazy with a big draw stroke before the second drop...

Still trying to correct with a draw stroke whilst dropping over the lip. The left edge of his boat then hit the rock platform visible under the spray and he flipped landing shoulder first then on his face on the rock before slipping off the rock inverted into the stopper below (flushy stopper thank goodness!)

Nasty break.

Update...

So it's been a few months since I posted. I will have to try to do better! We've had an eventful couple of months here. I'm sure most of you will be aware, but Dave was made redundant from Speakeasy 6 weeks or so ago. It came as quite a shock as it was totally out of the blue. I believe out of 21 staff members they had to let 5 go. He's had a few days freelancing but nothing concrete as yet. It's a difficult time to be out of work and he is just so desperate to have a job again. He loved his work and the people he worked with at Speakeasy. It really has been quite a blow. He's good at what he does though and which ever company takes him on will be very lucky - it's just trying to find the opportunities at the moment that's the difficult bit.

On a brighter note, my job is going well. I'm still only part time but have been able to get a bit of extra locuming here and there. These past 6 months have been quite the contrast to my previous 4 and a half years of doctoring as the long hours have vanished. Mountains of paperwork have unfortunately surfaced in place of the evenings and nightshifts that go hand in hand with hospital work. I do still do a regular evening surgery, but nothing like the long shifts back in hospital years. It amazes me how much of my day is now spent staring at a VDU rather than at patients. On the brighter side I enjoy my patients more. I have some fantastic patients that I have gotten to know over the past couple of years as the Registrar and then during my odd days in Blairgowrie as a Remote and Rural Fellow. It's amazing now being based in a practice I love and really feeling that you are able to serve a group of patients. I am so thankful for my job!! Having my own office is pretty sweet too - I'm slowly getting the place decorated with some pictures I've taken here and there. I even have a plant... it's almost like home! It's been quite a jump trying to get used to being self-employed, mainly from a tax perspective. I am terrified I'm going to estimate my tax bill wrongly - the consequences of that would be awful. It all seems a bit of a guessing game which makes it even more unnerving!

Local Fishermen below Bujagali falls

This past month I was lucky enough to return to Uganda for a holiday. It's been 6 years since I was there working in Iganga district in 2003 for my medical elective, boy how things have changed!! I was struck by how much more western everything seemed. Last time I was there there was no western food at all; this time I struggled to eat anything African! I think part of this may have been due to me staying in a very touristy area called Bujagali Falls. It is about 10km from the town of Jinja (which has also seen major development since my last trip) and is the heart of adventure sports in East Africa. I believe it all started around 1998 when the first commercial rafting of the White Nile began. Since then there has been huge growth in adventure tourism. There are around 4 rafting companies as well as a (fantastic) kayak school, a bungee jump, quad biking and horse trails.

Kayak the Nile! (note the Arsenal shirt!)

The main purposes of my trip this year were to kayak and to visit Daniel (Hakimu) whom I met in 2003. We have have been sponsoring him through a medical laboratory diploma at Makiere University in Kampala and he finished his studies this summer. I kayaked for around 10 days with Kayak The Nile under the excellent instruction of my guide, Anna Bruno - an American paddler who is now in her second season on the Nile having also spent time in Nepal this year teaching women how to kayak and raft guide. I was a little surprised by her slender frame when she introduced herself as my guide, however all fears were quickly stilled when I saw her on the water. I mainly paddled the day 2 rafting stretch - grade 4 for the most part. I chickened out of doing the Grade 5 stuff - figured I'd best leave something for next time ; ). The day 2 stretch comprises Bubugo Falls, Superhole (a friendly surf wave), Itanda Falls (Grade 6, MASSIVE holes - we portaged!), Vengence, Hair of the Dog, Kula Shaker and Nile Special. I was instantly struck by two things - eddy "lines" were more like "zones" with many horrible whirlies popping up along them and, secondly, by the size of the waves. Some of the waves must easily have been 15 footers and they were followed up with more massive waves ready to catch out the paddler celebrating victory too early. The rapids were also much, much longer than I am used to and pretty much impossible to scout from the bank. I was lead down everything "blind", following the stern of Anna's little Project 45 closely. This was a totally new way of running rapids for me and took some getting used to. I found it difficult maneuvering as I wasn't looking far enough ahead. My other problem was staring at the hazards confronting me rather than looking where I wanted to go. Sounds silly, I know, but when there is a stopper the size of our bedroom to your left it's hard not to look at it!! Anyway, after a few swims at the beginning and much boat emptying by Anna, the whitewater combat roll started to take shape. By the end of my trip my flat water roll had deteriorated to the point of uselessness but, for some reason, it generally seemed to work in the waves. What an amazing feeling it was being flipped on one of those massive waves, feeling like your head was in a washing machine and then managing to roll up... only to be confronted by the next monster wave! Anna was very patient with me when I had the occasional freak out at the top of the next rapid. I would ask if it was bigger than the last and she would answer that "it's just different". That phrase got me down bigger and bigger whitewater and also into the odd whirlpool (of which I still have an unconquered phobia following a nasty experience in Scotland earlier this year). The wildlife and scenery on the river was also spectacular - loads of interesting birds and kids swimming in eddys on the way downstream. I was really impressed with Kayak The Nile and was surprised by their regard for safety and professionalism. I guess I was expecting less given I was in Africa but, I'd have to say they were streets ahead of a major outdoor education company I did a weekends course with in Scotland earlier this year - they shall remain nameless!

Bubugo Falls

Ugandan paddler Bujagali falls


As well as paddling I also went to visit Daniel's family in Busowa village - a 2.5 hr drive northish of Jinja. That was quite an experience. I met his mother and her family and they prepared a feast for us which we ate in their hut. We then walked around the village and I was introduced to most of the villagers. Cries of "madam mzungu" were ringing in my ears for some hours after. We then visited his father's village and then his twin brother's village and repeated the same. I was exhausted by the end of the day but it was fantastic seeing Daniel and seeing his family and villages really helped me to put his life in context.

With Daniel and his family at his mothers house, Busowa village. Below, the feast his mother prepared for us at her home.

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Chapati for breakfast at Bujagali

Making samosas, Bujagali.

I flew home from Entebbe overnight on Sunday. There had been some trouble in Kampala before I left but I had a safe and uneventful journey to the airport despite the evidence of the riots littering the roadside just before the city. It's been difficult adjusting back to the temperature and the pace of life back here over the past week. I went out kayaking yesterday to do a new river (Tummel) with a guy from my club. I was horrified by how cold the water was despite my drysuit! Also, there are just so many rocks on the rivers here - flipping yesterday would probably have resulted in a good face plant on a number of sections! I think I have been spoilt by my time on the Nile!

Below, photos of our lower Tummel trip.

That's all for now. I hope you all enjoy the photos.
Jen.